All tagged Tutorial

How to Make a Flower Crown

Making a flower crown isn’t difficult once you master the mechanics needed for a seamless product. I promise! I often have other florists ask me to make flower crowns to complete their orders because they don’t feel they are capable. Is that you? Take a peek at this tutorial and add gorgeous flower crowns to your repertoire!

Video: Design Foundations of a Wedding Centerpiece

What are the three levels of an arrangement, and why should we be thinking about them as we design? In this video, Kelly walks you through the design principles of balance, shape, and rest and how she used them to guide every piece she creates. These three principles are the building blocks that lead to efficiency, balance, and freedom in design!

Video: Floral Design Mechanics for a Long Table Centerpiece

I took some supplies you would find at your local hardware store and made a beautiful 8 foot long centerpiece. In this arrangement you'll find bunny grass, yarrow, love in a puff vine, tiny hands (Japanese foliage), standard peonies, and much, much more! You can create a long table centerpiece following these simple step-by-step floral design mechanics. Watch this video for a quick how-to.

Transcript

Hi, it's Kelly with Team Flower. I wanted to pop in and show you the mechanics behind this table runner that we've created for a styled shoot recently. It's driven with me all the way back from Atlanta. It's still in one piece. It's looking a little tired. But I still wanted to bring it on and talk about it for just a minute, because I thought it might help you with a future project that you're working on.

So what we have here-- I'm always trying out new mechanics for how I can-- different materials that I can use and ways that I can put things like this together. So you may have seen another video where I did something similar to this, where we used garland and oasis. And we had a little system for working like a floral garland that way.

Well, this is actually, underneath-- I'm going to flip it up so you can take a quick peek. This is a piece of molding for a house. And Jessie, if you can get a little close up right here, you'll see underneath I have oasis bricks lined with a little bit of chicken wire under here. So that is there. And then I have just connected it with tape the whole way down.

So I'm going to pull one little section of this apart so you can see underneath. Is this a good section, Jessie? OK. So I'm going to pull these little guys out of here. And then I'll just tell you what's in here, too, in case if you see an ingredient that you like for a project you've got coming up.

These flowers came from Cut Flower in Atlanta. Really loved shopping their cooler. Alex helped me with my order that day and was super friendly.

So if you're looking for a source in that area, you have a project coming out, I highly recommend them. Beautiful cooler, one of the best coolers I've ever walked through. So Cut Flower Atlanta for these materials.

But you can see here-- can you see that, Jessie? What I've done is I've taken one piece of oasis and I've cut it into four pieces, but lengthwise. So it's nice little skinny pieces. They fit into this piece of molding from Lowe's hardware perfectly.

And then the little cup shape of the molding, you can see it just has a little dip here. That catches all the little bits of water under the oasis. So whenever we put this together, I could just tip the water off the edge.

And that kept it easy for traveling in the car. I didn't have water in my car. And whenever we set it onto the eight foot table with the linens and everything, it stayed nice and clean and dry. So I was really happy with how this piece performed. I liked it a lot.

I put just this little bit of chicken wire over here. I like to do that with oasis. Just in case, if you're repositioning stems quite a bit, sometimes it can break on you or just pop off. And so I just have just a little piece over the top of it to keep it all together.

This does take two people to move. It's eight feet in length. If you just have one person that was moving things, I'd recommend just snipping in half and doing four foot sections and working those together. But I loved the convenience.

If you just have a buddy going with you, you can just grab here and here. And they can grab there and there. Fits perfectly into the back of one of the U-Haul cargo vans. Or I have a Sienna minivan that it fits straight up to the front whenever you take all of the seats out or fold them down, however your car works.

In terms of ingredients in this piece, this is for like the blushy fall bride. I really love this palette a lot. I have some yarrow in here that I used low for coverage of the oasis. And I also brought a little bit of it out higher for some texture in the arrangement.

I have a little bit of bunny grass in here. It's what it was labeled as. It's a little bit different than the bunny grass I typically get, so I'm not sure if that's actually-- I'm not sure.

I'm not completely convinced that's exactly what it is. But it might be just maybe a different variety of that. But some type of grass. I've also seen grass that looks similar to this called foxtail grass. So it might be that.

I have some like love in a puff foliage down here. This foliage here is called tiny hands. It's from Japan. I have, of course, these big pretty peonies, spray roses.

A couple of these little-- I think this is-- I want to say this is cappuccino. They were unlabeled. But I have seen something very similar to this labeled and cappuccino is what it was called. So that's what I'm thinking for that.

These are beautiful tree peonies. These are from Japan as well. So peonies are now becoming available more year around. The tree peonies less frequent than your standard ones here.

But it's so interesting. They're coming just from different parts of the world throughout all of the growing seasons. And with shipping and just the logistics that they have available to them now, we're able to see and have these different things that are happening in different parts of the world, which is fun.

So we've got that. I have some of these pretty ranunculus scabiosa. Have a couple little acorns here. And I think I got almost-- I think got it all-- oh, bay leaves. That's what we used for our base coverage there.

So I'm back with my list. I forgot a couple of things, so I wanted Jessie to add this in at the end. But I missed this ingredient here, just pretty, blushy, real deep, and again nice texture and coverage low. And I'm going to spell it for you H-E-P-T-A-C-O-D-I-U-M, $9.50.

I also missed the amaranthe that I had pulled out. So this is the rose amaranthe. It's pretty. A lot of local growers have this now. So it's something that you can check around with if you're in an area where you have a couple local growers.

And then this leptopods-- they're very small, hard. They almost don't look real in a way. And I'm sure they would dry really well. But, yeah, little leptopods.

And these are porcelina. These and these came from Mayesh in Charlotte on the way down. So I picked those up along the way. And I think that handles all of it. Ranunculus are from Chile, in case you're interested. Yeah, that's all.

OK, just wanted to make sure you have this. Thanks, so much, for popping in. I hope that this inspires you for one of the projects, and maybe just makes your burden a little bit lighter. Thanks, so much, for watching. Have a great day.

Video: Using Floral Mechanics in Creative Ways

In this video I show how to use netting, foam and a tape grid together to support floral elements in a creative way! What happens when you want to use flowers who need different levels of support? What if you have an idea for a design that needs firm support in one area and loose support in another? That’s when using multiple floral mechanics is helpful!

Transcript

Hey, I'm Kelly. Welcome to "Team Flower." Today, I'm going to create a winter arrangement with you, and I have just five simple ingredients, golden raintree, and I have some of the pieris japonica, foxtail lilies. I have some grass. This is the grocery store grass just from the little field beside the grocery store, and a poinsettia from the grocery store. So all things that-- this is probably if you're going to go out there and practice an arrangement that's similar to this, this is probably going to be the thing that you might have a little bit of trouble finding, but you really don't need this specific type of thing. You just need something that's long and reaching and has a little bit of a bend to it.

So I'll talk about the purpose of the ingredients. The purpose is really the most important part. You can substitute with anything that fills a similar purpose and recreate a similar look.

Now, in terms of mechanics for this arrangement, I'm working in, I guess this is what I like to call the sailboat shape. But if you can come around here and just get a close up of how we have this set up. A lot of times I talk about wire, wire foam, and frogs and tape. There's lots of different ways to put together the mechanics for your arrangement.

And I like to choose those things based on the ingredients that I'm putting in the arrangement, not just what my preference is because I think sometimes people get locked into, well, I only use frogs or I only use foam or those kinds of things. But not all flowers perform really great in foam, but some flowers really need that really strong, stable thing. This container doesn't allow me to have a frog in here, at least not the shape. I just have the round ones in the studio right now. And just the way that it's shaped, it's difficult to really secure a frog in there really well.

So I thought through, well, how is the end of the design going to look? What are the components for mechanics that I can use to put together so that every flower's need is taken care of? So usually my technique for mechanics is a little bit simpler than this, but for this arrangement, in particular, I think it's important to have these different components.

So I'm going to fill this up too tall so I can tip and show, but you'll see I have a layer of chicken wire in here deep inside the bowl. And then I have a little piece of foam over here on my right-hand side, and then I have some tape grid over top of that. So this foam is important for the foxtail lily, which is really heavy and has a very thick stem.

The chicken wire, we can easily handle. The pieris can go in that. And this grass, I didn't put the foam to the edges on both sides because I need a little bit of room for the grass to go right into that chicken wire.

So I just wanted to share that with you as you're thinking through arrangements that you could be making. You can configure these in any type of way to meet the needs of the flowers, the ingredients, the end place that it's going to really serve your client best and meet their needs. And this one is just going in the house, so I'm not concerned about water sloshing in the car or anything like that. And if I was, I would just tip out water and refill whenever I got to my destination.

But without any further ado, let's go ahead and get started. I am going to begin with the pieris as the base in my creation here today. And right now, we're establishing the shape and the size of the arrangement. And this ingredient, while I am going to use the foxtail and the grasses are going to play an important role in shape and size as well.

This is really that low piece that the other flowers can be supported by, but it's also a pretty important shape component as well. So rather than just only using it to cover it down here in the rims, I see it being a pretty prominent piece.

So before I got started, I surveyed all the ingredients that I had, and I thought in my mind how would I like to go about arranging them, what are their strengths, how can I showcase them the best. And with the pieris, I really love the idea of it being dominant on one side, a little bit heavier on one side, but still having a little touch of it over here because I imagine these foxtail lilies shooting up in this area. So that's going to add some visual weight and balance it out over there.

So this is what we're looking at over here right now. And I'm designing this. I think if I have extra ingredients, I might go back in and finish up the back side, but I'm imagining this arrangement with what I have available to me just being one sided and being placed up against a wall and show cased in that light. So it's a silhouetted end use is what I have in mind. When we're really focusing on, the lines that are being created here, not as important that we have a finished back in this case.

So there's the main shape and silhouette that I have going with the pieris, and I'm going to add some of the grasses. The grocery store grass is next. I want those to shoot up and flow out over to the right side. And these are something that necessarily need lots of water right now. They're already pretty dry.

So what I'm going to do is do a little bit of a measure here, and then I'm going to bind them together so that they stay hanging out as a club whenever they get mixed in here with the rest of the flowers. And if the position isn't quite right and we need to pull the binding apart, that's no biggie. But that's what I think will perform the best, which you don't know until you get going. Every arrangement is different. Every flower group is different.

So now I've just got those together. Now, they're all one stem as opposed to being many, and that makes it easy to get it situated in here. Drama. Drama. Grass drama. Pretty fun.

So these foxtail lilies I saw as being really the backbone of this arrangement, so I'm going to add those next, nice and tall and reaching that uppermost point. And I thought it be a fun contrast with these really light grasses. The grasses really give us quite a drama moment too. But these add that touch of stability, and they have so much personality with their little curves.

And this tall one, if I just only use the tall one and I have a thing. I have naked stems very much. Sometimes they're fine, but for this, I like using the two pieces to work together to keep the flower beds going the whole way down into that base. And I think I'm going to stop with those for now. There could be another one. It depends what suits you, gives it a heavier look.

See whenever they're here at the same angle, they look like little-- I'm going adjust that a little bit. I don't know what littles they look like, but you just need to adjust the height of them so they don't look like, we'll call them ears. So that gives us a little stair step.

And the last ingredient, well, we have two more. We've got the raintree yet. And this I thought would be this pretty coming down and spilling out along with the pieris, little accent for that.

And since these don't need to be in water at all, you can use that pieris to tuck them in. Since some of them have shorter stems, you can touch them in and support them in and among the pieris. And you'll see I do have there is lots of open space in here. The mechanics are totally visible right now. That's something that we'll address.

But whenever you're doing something that is a little bit more sculptural, you need the negative space deep down inside here. So if you start filling that up too quick, too fast, then you really lose the interesting silhouette of the foxtail lily and things like that. So under here, this is an opportunity where just some light layering of moss can go in, trachelium, things like that that are very flat.

And in this case, I'm probably going to do a little bit with the poinsettia, just a leaf over top of the mechanics. Very, very subtle. So it's around Christmas time up here in the mountains, so the grocery stores, the poinsettias are out in the masses right now.

I love to get this poinsettia right in the water, directly in the water. Poinsettia does have the white sap. And so whenever that bleeds out, it will bleed out and will form little scab. The sap will eventually stop coming out of the plant, so it's important when you create an arrangement like this with a flower that has that, some people recommend clipping it, putting in water, letting it all run out and then switching it into a new bucket. So they say cut them at the length that you would want when you go in the arrangement. Well, sometimes when you're making the arrangement, you're not quite sure how long you need it to be.

So when you're planting, you can clip and let it sit in a little vase beside you and test it out, and then let it drain out and put it back in. What I'm going to do today is I'm going to put it in, I'm going to let it drain, and I'm going to flush the water. Just want to keep the water clean. But all of these plants are being clipped, and they're taking that first drink. So you if did do that, I'd recommend adding this one in a little bit later after they've already had a chance to get some of their water out.

But I could also just clip and pop them in my little vase here as well. So that is up to you. You can do some experiments and see what kind of difference it makes.

Now, we're just adding those poinsettias in there. I think I really could have stopped before, but these are that nice little focal point, and by little I mean big. Focal points are big, but I think with this, with the emphasis that we had on the shape and the way that the lilies came up and out, I think it could have easily been done before.

So we're at that matter of preference point. It's all a matter of preference, actually, but the principles are what help guide us. So we can interpret them a lot of different ways. So my dominant principle before I added the focal point could have just been the line of the foxtail lily. It works both ways.

All right. So that's what I've landed with and where I'm going to hang out and quit. But I am going to just go back over with some of the poinsettia and the raintree and just do some low coverage in here at the bottom to cover mechanics. But that's all, nothing really interesting to see there with that.

So here you have it with the poinsettia, and I will pop these out so you can see and get a visual again if the line was going to be the dominant principle, how that would change the overall composition. So there you have it. Thanks for watching.

Video: How to Make a Sunflower Wedding Bouquet

Sunflowers are the first flower I remember growing, so they are special to me. I know I’m not alone, as so many people love the happy yellow faces sunflowers have to offer. If you’re a designer, though, they can be quite difficult to work with! In this video, I’m going to demonstrate how to create a sunflower wedding bouquet, specifically in a cascading shape.

Video: How to Create a Monochromatic Flower Arrangement in Dark Summertime Hues

What do you think about monochromatic flower arrangements? This week, I’m sharing about working with black flowers—specifically in the summertime! Designing an arrangement with dark flowers using a monochromatic color scheme really creates an interesting mood, and it helps you notice the texture of all of the flowers. I’ll share some of my favorite varieties and their little nuances, and I’ll walk you through the dark centerpiece I’m testing.

Video: Comprehensive Training on Floral Supplies

There are so many materials and supplies used in the floral industry, and it can get quite overwhelming to know everything you need as well as how to use them! In this video, Kelly Perry of Team Flower lays out an extensive list of floral supplies used in the industry. From Quick Dip to flower tubes, she walks through each item, detailing what it is and how it is best used. Demonstrations are given for each tool to allow for greater understanding of safe and efficient ways to use the items shown.

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Transcript

Hi, I'm Kelly from Team Flower and I wanted to introduce you to some of the floral supplies that you will be working with. I'm going to go through just a broad overview of all of these different things and then we'll learn how to use them where they fit into the big picture. I'm going to start with this, this is the big chopper. This is something that you may or may not be working with but just in case you are, I just wanted to demonstrate how to use it. So this is primarily used when you're processing flowers. So there's a lot of flowers coming through your studio. This is a really great way to get the stems cut quickly and popped in water. So I have some roses here and you'll see I'm just able to put them underneath, keeping very careful watch that my fingers never get close to that giant blade. And I just bring them down and cut, cut, cut. These are ready to go in water. So that is a, that's the flower chopper. We'll get that off the table here. Now the other cutting tools that are commonly used whenever you're working with flowers are three different types of scissors. So here we have the general all-purpose scissors. These can be used for all kinds of different things right down to really specific detail work. You'll notice that the tip on them is very pointed so whenever you're cleaning flowers, say you have a lot of things that just need to be clipped off and really manicured, these are great. They're also great for general purpose. They can cut through stems, they can cut through branches. It's a really great sharp scissor. So, here's one. And the next one is a little bit different. So you'll notice that this one has a curved blade. So if you are trying to get around, perhaps a bouquet or something like that, to clip it off, these can be really great for something like that. Also, if you have a thicker branch that, maybe, these ones can't get through, this is like, level two. Some people use these as general purpose as well, but they're a little bit heavier than these. So this is something I can hold in my hand for several hours and be fine with. These are a little bit more to hold and to carry around. The other difference is that if these kind of slip off the table and onto the ground, they're not quite as heavy. Where these, the heaviest part is blade on this, so it's more than likely going to fall blade down and could cause some damage to the floor or to your feet. So, I like to keep these ones off the table, only use it when it's necessary, and this is the great general purpose. The last scissor is a ribbon scissor. So these are special, these are only, only used for ribbon. Nice and sharp so that you can get through and make a nice clean cut. So no flower guts on these, really, really important. Those are your three scissors. Now, in keeping with the ribbon, I have a little miniature hair straightener here. If you're asked to prep ribbons you can, and they're a little bit wrinkly, particularly with the silks, you can warm this baby up and do a quick little ironing of the ribbons. So this is another tool in the toolbox. And along with that, the ribbons, you may keep a bulletin board on hand so that you can take the ribbons, maybe you're making, asked to create some streamers that will go onto the bridal bouquets. Let's make one quick. And I'll show you how the bulletin board is helpful. So the specific way that the streamers are made is something that you'll want to ask your supervisor. How they'd like those to look. Of course, the colors, the lengths, all of those things because they'll be very familiar with the client's preferences. Perhaps, even, they can make one for you and then you can copy. So we've got these little ribbon tails here. And that can just get folded together neatly and folded under. And a lot of times with ribbon tails I will actually do the pin underneath, just like that. And so this will go in and the front tails will cover the pin. You could also do it so that the pin goes through the front. Again, just ask your supervisor and go from there. But I like doing this because they can all clip on to the bulletin board. And then you can make sure that all your tails are nice and professional and an even length. So there's a few supplies that you might come across, in terms of ribbon. Next, the rose stripper. So there's a lot of ways to do this and I'm actually, I'm going to demonstrate this whenever I process the flowers. So we'll wait until we have these things cleaned off, but I wanted to introduce you to that. You put the stem of the flower here and do a quick motion down and that gets rid of all the thorns in a really safe, easy way where you don't hit your hand because you're completely covered by this nice, heavy plastic. There's several different kinds of tapes. I'd say flower arranging is about tape and scissors. If you have those two things and a container you can do just about anything. So, tape, there's different sizes and types. So this is one of the quarter inch clear tapes. And this is great if you're working with a container, maybe you're going to, you've been asked to create a grid on the top of the container. This is great to use with glass because you don't see the tape. So what you do is you just take the tape and you do like a tic-tac-toe board. And the type of flowers that you're using and the overall style of the design will determine how wide or how close together this grid goes. So that's something that would be great to do one. Ask your supervisor if it suits them and then repeat and do the whole lot. Or, if you have one that's already done that you can copy, then you know for sure you're on the right track and you can go from there. But I want you to know the general concept of a grid before you even get started. So this one we're going to do four and four. And depending on the end use, some folks like to then take their tape and go around the outside of the rim to catch all of those ends for some extra security. So sometimes I do this and sometimes I don't, just depends on the occasion. That's something that you'll learn as you go. So this is the thin, skinny quarter inch clear Oasis tape. And then we have two other kinds. This is the half inch and then we have the quarter inch in the green. And what's a little bit different about this tape is that it is tackier. So, where this, if it gets water around the edge it can loosen up a little bit easier than one of these more heavy duty tapes. This is like a florist's duct tape as opposed to a florist's scotch tape. So you can see the difference there. This bouquet tape, well I just called it bouquet tape, but this is what I commonly use for bouquets. So whenever you're prepping, maybe you're asked to prep the tape for bouquets. I would want a piece of tape that's about this long, about just a little bit over a foot. And that's enough to wrap around my bouquet once and then to go backwards so that I have a sticky spot for my ribbon to hold onto. So that's a common use. You can also use this in larger arrangements as a grid as well. And then the smaller. I could use that, easily replace this with that over here. This is something that I like to use on boutonnieres as well. These two are interchangeable it just depends how much stick I need, or what's most important. If its most important that I have a transparent background or if I can afford to have a little bit of tape, like if that's going to be covered with ribbon or something like that, then I'll always choose this heavier duty tape, it just sticks a little bit better. So these are our sticky tapes. These are called stem tape. They come in all different kinds of colors and when you unwind it it does not have a sticky surface like this one. So this gets its stick from being stretched. The more you stretch it, the stickier it gets and it also warms up a little bit under the warmth of your fingers. So this is commonly used whenever you're wiring flowers or creating a crown. So I'm going to show you here. Here we have a little flower crown that would go on. So if you're asked to prep something like this what you're going to do is take some of this. This is another one of our supplies. This is just a simple it's just a simple piece of wire. Wire can also come wound on a spool, so this would be called spool or paddle wire. And wire comes in all kinds of different weights. So, the higher the number, the more flexible the wire. So this is like a number 24 and you'll see it's very flexible. And this one is about 20, 18 or 20, and it has a little bit more stability to it. So for flower crowns I think that a little bit of stability is great, particularly if you're going to have quite a lot of flowers on here. They need a nice stable surface to live. So what you do is you take your stem tape and you stretch as much as you can and you pull it really tight. And you twist as you go and now this surface is becoming nice and sticky. And then here at the end if you need it to be an adjustable crown, you can just do a small little hook here and keep your tape going to get these two little ends put together here. And then you wrap around and you can do that little hook. So this is a great size for just a small child, an infant-sized crown. And then this one is better for a full, full, full-sized adult, but it can also be adjusted to whatever size is needed whenever you get there. So just that little hook is helpful to have. And this one just has two pieces of wire that are wound together. So that's a little sample of what you can do and what a commonly used application of the wire is. Now this paddle wire is something that we'll see a lot whenever we're creating garlands. So if we're putting bunches of flowers together and we're doing a lot of, like, whips around, this is the paddle wire. Because this, you would have to, you know, be going back to get more and more each time, but in a pinch, you can certainly use it. This is just a little more economical for the garlands is what I use that for. Okay. Next I have a zip tie. These are great for attaching things to different, you know, pillars or arbors, things like that, if you need to hold quite a lot of weight. You could use wire if you were in a pinch, but these zip ties are great and that's something that you're going to find in your florist's toolbox, more than likely. I also have some pins here. Pins can be used for all kinds of different things, most commonly ribbons and bouquets and attaching those small, detail works and personal flowers and pinning boutonnieres onto jackets and things like that. Just a note about pinning boutonnieres to jackets. They go over the heart and on the lapel of the suit. There'll be a little buttonhole and that's where you're aiming for, that boutonniere to go right on that buttonhole. Then what you do is you take the fabric and you pinch it so you're making a little cocoon around the, let's see here, we could use this as an example. So let's pretend that this is the stem of the boutonniere. You'll, and this is the lapel of their jacket, you'll bend the jacket just like that, and then you'll take your pin and you'll go straight through. So when you're pinning this is something that you'll want to practice and you'll want to get real good at. So you're just, instead of doing one of these numbers where you're going up and around, you're just going to go straight through so the fabric, you'll go behind the fabric and straight through. Great thing to, to just make a couple boutonnieres and that's something great to practice and get really good at. That'll be really helpful to your supervisor. Okay, next we talked about ribbon, so that's good to go. Rose stripper. Just another note about this stem tape. I will show you how to wire a flower once we process the flowers that I have down below. But you'll want to match this to whatever color the stem is that you're using. So, renunculus, I like to use this light green that's a common flower that I'll wire for boutonnieres or flower crowns. Same thing with spray roses. So this is my most commonly used color, but you can just take a quick inventory and see. This darker one works great with tropicals. The brown one for branches. If you're wanting to do branches. Another thing that'll be your friend, Goo Gone. A lot of times the containers come in, they have stickers on them that need to come off and be shined and polished up. So, Goo Gone to get those stickers off or some nice glass cleaner can also sometimes get those stickers off just depends where they're coming from and how sticky they are. So, Goo Gone, Windex, paper towels, those are all going to be a part of the studio experience. I also have some Super Glue. This comes in really handy whenever something breaks on you. So I have this Super Glue. I also have Gorilla Glue. So sometimes, this is aqua strength, so if something breaks that's glass that also needs to hold water, this is a really great fix for that. The other thing that I use the epoxy for is attaching flower frogs to containers. So something that you might be tasked with is setting the containers up to receive the water and the flowers. So right here we did the grid, like I showed you. So this might be, this is one way that you can set your containers up. Another way is using these flower frogs and this varies depending on each job that you're doing, the purposes, what the priorities are, what types of flowers you're using. I use all kinds of different mechanics, it just depends which one is best suited for what I'm doing in the moment. So that's something that you'll see switch up as you're working in the studio. This can get attached down at the base of the container with some of this epoxy. It smells terrible, if you want to use a little, you know, cover your nose with a scarf or something. But it's very fragrant and it does take a little bit of time to set and to get dry. So follow the instructions if that's something that you're going to use. You can also attach these to the containers using a product called Cling, which is basically sticky putty. And the goal with the sticky putty is to not have any spots where water can get underneath and then pop it out. So you just want to go around real carefully and there's detailed instructions on these different ways to prep a container on teamflower.org/free. So, that's a flower frog. Next is chicken wire. This is used in all kinds of different applications in the floral studio. I use it to provide a base for my containers. So I have the frog, the tape graph over top, and then another option would be to take this and to use it wound into a ball in the container. Some floral studios like to use wire clippers for any kind of wire cutting. In my studio we use these Joyce Chen's for just about everything. It allows me to clip through really quickly and I just find that the wire cutters are quite heavy so maybe there's a pair, like these are designated for ribbon. Maybe there's a, there will be a pair in your studio that are designated for wire. So, that's something to keep in mind. So I'm just going to remove the grid here. Now prepping with the chicken wire I like to make a little bit of a cylinder. It just depends on the shape that I'm working with. So this time for this one the cylinder actually needs to go in the other direction. The goal is to have the wire create a place for the flowers to go through at the top and the bottom because that's what will hold the flowers in place. So if this is a flower stem and I only have it at the top, this will, this has a lot of flexibility about where it can go. But if I'm trying to get it in this general vicinity, that second one is what keeps it in place and keeps it from going all over. So it's important that you have those two layers. Now, if you're working with some really thick stemmed flowers, amaryllis perhaps, you'll want to do a little bit less so that your stems can fit down in there. But for general purpose, this is a great thickness. You've got lots of great little places for the flowers to catch. So this is an opportunity to take that heavier tape and to do just a small X to keep that sturdy in the container. You'll find that different florists have different preferences about the exact mechanics and how they get set up. Don't become frustrated by that, everybody does it a little bit differently. And um, you'll just want to ask how they'd like you to do it and follow suit. So there is that. Now, I picked one of my containers that had a little piece of flower gunk on it here because I wanted to remind you that in the flower studio there's going to be things that pop up that you can be doing whenever there's, maybe, a lull. And one of those things is cleaning containers. There's always going to be a messy container somewhere that needs to be cleaned up. And I really like to just use a simple dish detergent for that, although there are special bucket cleaners and things that you can use as well. You'll just want to ask about that and know where those supplies are in your studio. So cleaning containers is one thing that we're always happy to have done, counted, organized, even better. Now this is called floral foam and we use this floral foam. This is something that you'll find in most studios no matter where you go because there's some things that floral foam allows us to do that chicken wire and the flower frogs just simply can't. So if we need to attach something, maybe, to the side of a fence or an arbor and we really need that water source, this is a great product for that. So you might be asked to prep this. I use the long wire, that we had demonstrated the flower crown, to cut it. That keeps big knives out of the studio, just in case those might fall and hurt somebody. Wire's pretty easy and it works. I like to do the cutting for this after the foam has soaked. So you'll notice that there was just a little bit of a dust that popped up from that. It's not great for you to breathe, but if you cut it after it's soaked, you don't have that problem. So soaking Oasis, you'll want to follow, as each type of Oasis has a different instruction for soaking on the box. But the key, generally, overall is that you set it in there and you wait for it to sink just below the surface of the water. So you don't want to take it and shove it into the bucket because it will become, you'll find that this area, when you do that, it appears to have been soaked completely, but this area in here will not be fully wet. So a flower could get in there and it could just be in a dry spot in the Oasis and then you have flower loss. So it's really important to give this time and let it soak. The different types soak for different lengths of time. Some of them will say that they can soak in 10 minutes, and I believe that they can, but I still like to soak my Oasis overnight whenever possible just so that they are really full of as much water as possible, especially if I'm going out on a warm day to do my, do my work. So, that is that. You can also use Oasis in containers as well. So, rather than putting this chicken wire in here I could cut a brick that fits perfectly into my container. So this is a great size, I think, for going into the container. And what I would do is pop that down in there and I would still include water in the container. Some people glue this to the base of their container and then add a little bit of water to top it off. But what I do is just pop it in there underneath and then I take this tape and put it across the top so that I have that stability in there as well. This one is a little bit taller so if my Oasis didn't go the whole way down to the floor I could stuff with a little bit of chicken wire down there at the base. Key thing is just to make sure that all the flowers are in water. You know, if they happen to be in there at the side or if you're using flowers that don't do really well in Oasis they can pop down there right in the part that doesn't have Oasis. Staplers are helpful to have whenever you're doing the ribbons. You can just staple this little section together. So there might be some designs where a stapler comes in handy. It's also great to have if you're gathering invoices and flowers to put on that main packet or quote for the client is to keep stapling all of the receipts that are coming in to that particular client's bill. Lighters. That's something that you'll use commonly if you're doing an event install. And then we also have the candle dampener. So this keeps wax from going everywhere, if that's a concern. Also, measuring tapes. This is something you'll find in the floral studio as well. All kinds of uses, of course, measuring different things being the core of those. Another thing that we have here are gloves, white gloves. So whenever you're doing candles or glasswork and maybe installing for an event, if you have something like this it keeps fingerprints from getting on the candle holders that you're working with and the glass. Okay, this little fancy toothpick, these are great for installing on cakes. So you can put your flower on there and then insert it into the cake. So this is something that might find in the toolkit that perhaps needs refreshing or replenishing. I also like to keep these skewers with me as well. These are helpful if I'm doing, like, amaryllis or something like that. I can put this up the hollow stem and trim the stem here and insert this part into the floral foam or whatever it may be. Amaryllis do really great without a direct water source. You can also just put a little cotton ball on the end to have a little bit of moisture up there in the flower head. So this is something you keep in the toolbox. Also have flower tubes. So this is something that you fill. You may be asked to fill a whole bunch of them. Put water in there the whole way up to the top, close it shut and then the flower stem goes in there and this pick can go into garland, it can go into arbors. Anywhere, even maybe a single rose that's going out the door for a delivery. Just a way to have a water source for that flower, but just one flower at a time in these guys. The last thing that we have here is the lazy Susan. And the lazy Susan is great for making arrangements because you can pop your container on there and you can work 360 around the flower arrangement. So, these are some of the general supplies. A few other things that I have down here. A broom, because it's always a welcome sight to see things being cleaned up off the floor. So that's one of those things. And then I wanted to introduce you to the different types of chemicals that are helpful with flower arranging. So this one is called Quick Dip, it allows the flower to take a really quick drink after they're being processed and I'll show you how to use that as we go through the processing flowers demonstration. And then the Floralife flower food. And this has a mixture of sugar and Clorox and it helps keep the water clean and the flowers fed. This goes in buckets. This does not, very important. So the flower food goes in buckets. The Quick Dip is just a quick dip and then the flowers go in the buckets. If you accidentally do Quick Dip in the water, pull it out, start over again, replace it with the flower food. The other thing we have here is Crowning Glory. This is a spray bottle and it is a solution that seals the moisture into the petals. So one of the biggest dangers with cut flowers is dehydration. So waters, flowers can drink from their base and then they also can, but they can lose moisture through their petals. So this is just a solution that seals and keeps all the moisture inside the flowers and helps them to last a little bit longer. You also might have another water bottle filled simply with water and that can be really helpful for flowers that maybe don't prefer to have the Crowning Glory, or if maybe, you don't have Crowning Glory in the studio. It's a way to moisturize those petals. It's great for hydrangeas, they drink through their petals, so a quick little mist on the tops of them is helpful in keeping them nice and fresh. The other thing that the water is helpful for is votives. So if you have a lot of votives going out for an event if you spritz them and then put your votive candle in it will help the wax from sticking to the container which makes clean up a lot easier. And these are my flower claws. So, you can use a dust pan, but I have these claws to pick up the big clumps of flower waste that fall on the floor to keep everything nice and clean. Keeping the trash emptied in the studio, relatively clean while an event is taking place, is so important and welcome. Just to have that clear space and be able to get, you know, maybe tables that roll, in and out and just to keep our feet safe. So, that's what we've got with that. And the last thing I have to show you is a really dirty bucket. It's gross! This is what happens when flowers get left in the buckets too long. You get all kinds of nice stuck on slime. And this one's been outside so it has, like, rain, dirt and grass and all kinds of stuff stuck to it. I'll use, a lot of times, the Dawn in these and a toilet brush bowl, like a nice, sturdy bowl where I can really get in there and scrub, scrub, scrub because the important the about processing flowers is that you have a nice, clean bucket. So, this is an example of something that needs attention. Okay, let me get these things off the table and then I'll show you how to unwrap flowers whenever they come in and get those ready to go out again. Okay, I'm back with a few flowers I wanted to process with you. The first one I have is marigolds and then I also have some roses. Roses are something that I have on almost every single order, so I think this is a good one to practice with. And then these are representative of my specialty seasonal flowers. So this is what I, this is what we're working with here, these little marigolds. Now, flowers, they can be fresh, they can be less than fresh. They have a long life before they actually get to us. Some of them are being shipped in from Holland. So they go from growers in Holland, or in other parts of the world, through the Dutch flower auction and then they come to you. So sometimes flowers can be cut several weeks and they get stored in that cold chain. So it means they're going from the farm, to the auction, to the truck or the plane, and they're kept cold throughout that entire process which is what allows them to then wake up whenever they get to their final destination. So, you are the final destination. You are the point at which these flowers begin to wake up and come to realize their full potential. If it's time for the flowers to not quite reach their full potential yet, it's important to keep them cool. So let's take a little look at these marigolds. I want you to see the difference between some flowers that are really on their way out and then some fresher ones. So you know that these flowers are on their way out because you'll see that the stem, or that the petals have started to dehydrate. So they're starting to turn brown, they feel a little crispy. These are things that obviously need to be removed from the flower before it's used. And if something like this was received in my studio, this is something that I would be requesting a credit on, because they're really, the amount of loss that we have on here is pretty significant. So if you come across flowers that look like this, whenever you're unpacking them, it's important to take a quick picture and take a look at that invoice and notice how many bunches of them were past prime, because you really need fresh product. Now some parts of this can be salvaged. And then other times a lot of times with events in particular, there's just not time to do all of that salvaging work. But I wanted to do a couple stems of these so that you can see what can come off and how different the flower can look whenever you give it a little bit of love. So, you'll notice here that this one doesn't have a flower bud at the top of it. So I'm going to clip that off with these little detailed scissors. And I'm going to just get rid of all of this dehydrated foliage. Sometimes foliage further up on the flowers is not dehydrated. It just depends what stage the flower is in. In this one it's really the whole way up the stem, but sometimes it'll just be, you know, lower in the base of the stem and you can leave some of those pretty little frilly pieces on at the top. But the goal is whenever you're thinking about processing the flowers, the question is, is it beautiful? And if it's beautiful it gets to stay, and if it's not beautiful then it needs to go. So this one, another one without a bud at the end. And when I'm processing I like to leave the stems as long as possible. Unless I know specifically where they're going to go. So that allows the designer optimal flexibility whenever they go to place this flower in an arrangement. So, they may find that this piece needs to come off whenever the flowers are actually being arranged, not when they're being processed, but when they're arranged. And they can use this little guy right here to pop out on a side. So when you're looking at the piece as a whole it might not look like you would necessarily be drawn to this particular piece, but sometimes the way that it bends and gives is the perfect addition to an arrangement. So that's something to keep in mind. Give the designer optimal flexibility with how the flowers are cleaned. So you can see what a difference that looks like. The blooms on here, they're very sturdy. These are still going to be nice and these are going to last for a long time. Just this, this you know, these decapitated pieces and some of this that just is not, not as good. Just that little indicator that they've been through a lot. So that, great for event work, but if I was sending that out for something that needed to last for longer I know that these are, I know that these have been, been out because of that dehydration factor. Okay, so, there's the difference. That's what you're going for with marigolds. When you're thinking about putting them into a bucket you want to find the bucket that suits the length of the flower stem. So there are buckets that are taller, right about this height. That would be a perfect fit for a flower like this. Putting them in here means that they flop around a little bit too much. So you would want a taller bucket like a Home Depot five gallon bucket or one of the square flower buckets for something that's a tall stem like this. Unless they were being used in shallow applications the whole way around, in which case, this would be fine. I wanted to show you some Quick Dip. We talked about this in the supply section. What I'll do is just get a small little container to put it in. And you take your cleaned flower, give it a fresh snip. Whenever you're snipping, you just snip at an angle that allows for more water absorption. You do a quick dip and into the bucket. Now already in the bucket I have some of the Floralife Crystal Clear. And you'll just want to follow the instructions on the container as far as mixing, how much needs to go in the different sizes of the buckets. Okay, let's do roses next. Alright, so this variety is called combo. Oh no, sorry, not combo, Camel, this one's Camel. Most roses will come wrapped up just like this. And when this rose first comes in, when it first pops into your studio, something that you'll want to do is to give it that fresh cut. Give it the Quick Dip and then set it in water upright for about two hours. Now what this does, it allows the flowers to have that initial drink with the support of this covering, which means that they're not going to, if they're a little bit dehydrated whenever they come to you and they have like, a wobbly neck, sometimes they can absorb the water and their necks can stay wobbled. You'll see this with lots of different types of flowers. So sometimes letting them, if they are dehydrated when they come to you, it's not a terrible sin, they can be rehydrated in most cases. But having some little bit of a support when you're processing is helpful. So getting familiar and taking note of when the flowers have a little bit of a weak neck, and whenever they're already hydrated whenever they get to you, is important because sometimes you might need to go grab some newspaper or some craft paper and just add a, you know, stretch the flowers out and wrap them up, give them that little piece of tape and put them in to soak that water up so that the necks can absorb the water fully. So after they've had their initial drink, and these have, you can take them out of their wrapper. There's usually staples in here and a lot of times in the flower boxes themselves that the flowers are being shipped in. Be really careful that you don't cut your fingers on those because they can be very sharp. Okay, so the flowers are packaged in two layers. So whenever you buy them you think, oh, there's only a dozen flowers in there, but you pop open and there is a second layer hidden underneath. Now between each layer there's a piece of cardboard. So this just protects the flowers from bruising. Now, a lot of times with roses I'll grab a pair of gloves if they have a lot of thorns on them and particularly if they're are a true garden grown rose, those thorns can be really nasty. So you might want to have a pair of gloves in your apron or your pocket whenever you're working with processing roses. This is the stem cleaner that I showed you. You just grab it, squeeze it and down you go. All your thorns are taken care of and these few beautiful leaves at the top are fine to leave on. I actually encourage leaving on a few leaves, if they're beautiful, at the top. If they need to come out and they're being, maybe used in a bouquet or something like that where the leaves aren't needed, that's something that you might want to ask your manager. Again, knowing where these flowers are going and what the end goal is that they're being used for. Because if this is going in a bouquet, I'm probably going to want to go ahead and pull these extra petals off and put those in the bouquet pile. You'll just want to give it another cut at an angle, maximum water absorption, Quick Dip and in. And with the Quick Dip you can do multiple flowers at a time. So I'm thinking about efficiency whenever I'm doing something. It's not important to me as a designer that every single thing is perfectly clean, although it might be important to yours. I'm thinking about, usually I'm doing weddings, so I'm marching towards this deadline of needing to get the flowers out and prepped and to their final destination. So for me, speed is important. I want it to be done well. I want it to be done professionally. But, for example, where it may be necessary in some applications to trim this little nib that's here to make the flower perfect, for what I'm doing, that's not necessary. So knowing that final end use, what it's for, important. So as you process these, as they have that little bit of Quick Dip they're going to open up and they're going to be so beautiful. Sometimes the flowers come in and they're very tight and sometimes they are not. And how you can tell is by just squishing this rose head right here. If it's flexible it has give, it's going to open up beautifully in a day or two. So, great for event work. Other times you squeeze this and it's really hard, that means it's going to take a little bit longer or it might not open at all. Some varieties of roses just don't open. So that's something important to keep in mind. Another way that you can handle these stems, if you don't have a rose cleaner like this, is simply clipping them off with your scissors, a nice, clean cut. Another thing that people will do and some people, you know, prefer, there's so many ways to take care of, the goal is clean the stem. There's many ways to clean the stem. Some people use a knife. I don't like to have knives in the studio, I think they're a little bit dangerous, but you just the whole way down the stem to get those off with a knife. So that's, that's what we're looking at here. Okay, so let's go fast, right? The same repetitive motion over and over again is how you can get going really fast at things. So, that one didn't have pretty leaves on it so I took all the leaves off. This one doesn't have pretty leaves on it so all the leaves come off. But it's doing the same thing over and again. So unwrapping all of the staples off the roses. Laying all the roses out. Then going after the rose stripper with all of them. Once you get the hang of it, once your manager is like, oh, it looks great, then you know you can repeat it and just go to town. Get your work environment set up in a way that's really efficient. So right down here, garbage can. All those leaves are just plopping right into a garbage can as they go down. I find that it's so helpful in doing things like this. I mean, it takes a lot of concentration to keep it moving at a quick pace. I love to do stuff like that quick and concentrated and then have time over a break to catch up on, catch up on different things. So you might find that the people that you're working with aren't chatting and that's fine, don't take it personally. And sometimes they do, just depends the, just depends from place to place. So you could also run these through, I showed you the chopper. This would be a great opportunity to run those through if you wanted to handle it that way or you were doing large, large quantities. Dip and done. Another way to get the roses to open is to keep them warm and keep them in light. And whenever you're thinking about filling up your buckets to receive the flowers, again, clean, clean buckets and generally room temperature water will suffice and is a perfect fit for most flowers. Some things like hellebores that grow really cold in the winter. Some varieties really need to be in chilly, chilly water. Maybe they have a hot bath and then they go in chilly water. Other things like sappy flowers, like daffodils and milkweeds, you'll notice that they ooze. These don't ooze, but things like that do, so you'll want to put them in their own bucket while they seal and all that sap comes out and then you'll just transfer them into a bucket of clean water. And then when they're being arranged with they get clipped and swished to let that seal come out again, and then into the arrangement with the rest of the flowers. Just to help keep the water clean. Sometimes even if I'm using a lot of things like that that have sap and that ooze, even though they're hardened off, I might just dump the water and refresh the water after the arrangement is completely made. And I really, I have not seen any major longevity or loss issues that were directly related to that with that process. Sometimes the life of the flowers before they reach you, they just not a super healthy plant or super, an older established plant that holds well. So sometimes there's things that are a little bit outside of your control, but generally I find that that works quite well. So, that is processing flowers. Those, some of those specific things like hot water, cold water, you may just want to ask your manager, is it okay if all these are in lukewarm water today? Or do you need them in cold water? If you're wanting, perhaps peonies, something that you don't want to have open up really quickly, cold water is going to, anything cold is going to keep the flower asleep and anything warm is going to wake the flower up. So those are some core principles that are important to know about processing and handling the cut flowers. I wanted to show you how to wire a flower which is really helpful for prepping for boutonnieres, corsages, flower crowns, things like that. The benefit to wiring flowers is that we can make a thin, flexible stem which keeps some of those things from being really bulky. There's a few ways to wire, I'm going to show you two. The first one you put the wire through this part of the flower right here. You fold it down like a bobby pin. And then you wrap the wire around like this. Now, depending on the application that you are using this particular flower for, you may not want the stem to go down long. You may need it to be short so, you can cut the flower off it just, again, knowing how it's going to be used. You can cut if off nice and short like this which would be nice for corsage. You need that little bit of a lip to get the wire going around, but after that you're all set. Then you take your stem tape wrapping real, real tight to get it nice and sticky. Make a nice, clean line up there around the base of the flower. And bring it down just like that. So this can very easily get attached to the flower crown that we had talked about in the supply section. And it just goes on just like this. And then you build and work and that's a little behind the scenes on how those get created. But it's so helpful to have a part of this ready and prepped to go for the designer that's making all of the pieces. So, that is wiring a rosebud. Another way to wire. If you have something that is a little bit more open like this rose, for example, we can get to open the whole way here. Going to give it a little clip. And what we can do is we can actually, this is helpful for renunculus, for boutonnieres, I like to wire renunculus this way. You make the bobby pin first and that goes down through the actual center of the flower. Right there in the sweet yellow part. So it's piercing both sides. You're bringing it down, you're tugging it until you don't see the wire. You want the wire to be hidden. So just a gentle, but firm tug. And then same thing for finishing like we did with the last one. Just around this small nib there. Making a nice, clean professional border and down we roll. Okay, that's wiring flowers. You might be wondering what should I wear? And I can answer that question for you. On studio days it's really helpful and super duper important anytime there are clippers anywhere that you have closed toed shoes; boots, sneakers, anything like that, that if a blade were to fall on your foot, it would protect your foot and keep your foot nice and safe, really important. There's also a lot of water, leaves, possibility to slip. It's important that they have good, solid traction on your shoes. That's the most important thing about what to wear. On days whenever there's installation work and there's a lot of moving and lifting and all those kinds of things taking place, I think it's really helpful to wear black pants. Black pants are a great friend because if you're carrying a bucket of water and it starts sloshing and gets a little bit out of control, the black, it just blends. You don't look like you peed your pants anymore, it just blends in with the black. So I speak from several times of experience that those black pants are really a lifesaver. The other thing with tops that I really love to do on event day, or really most days, I love to have an undershirt that I can tuck in because there's a lot of bending and all those kind of things. So having an undershirt that's tucked in and has a higher waistline or a higher neckline, modest neckline, it's really helpful. And then I will toss, if it's an event day, I'll toss a fancy, maybe like a little sparkly shirt underneath and then I'll put a button down kind of work shirt. Like maybe a dark chambray or some kind of a, something that can cover my sleeves because you're out, or cover my arms, because you're out in the sun, sun's beating down on you, don't want to get that sunburn. So having that collar and having those sleeves to keep from insects and sun, so helpful. And then if I need to stay and there's a flip happening at the reception or something like that I can pop that one off and it's usually dirty and yucky. And I can have my cute little sparkly shirt underneath with the black pants, switch out the sneakers or the boots for just, like a little flat in the car. That's my quick, quick switch on event day. So I hope that helps whenever you're deciding what would be helpful to wear and what would be most efficient for you to wear on work days.

How to Design Geodesic Terrariums

If you're reading this post, it's likely because the word pairing geodesic terrariums caught your eye. And if you’re wondering how to design a geodesic terrarium, you're in luck! These designs look just as cool as they sound—and they’re fun to create.

Video: Centerpiece Design Quick Tips

Join Kelly as she goes through a free 4-part quick tip video series on designing a centerpiece. She discusses designing for a table, using the lines principle of design, and shows the ingredient use and purpose. Watch these completely free video lessons.

 

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Video transcripts

Hi, I'm Kelly Perry with Team Flower, and I'm here to show you a few quick tips for designing on a narrow rectangular table. If you have a client that wants a long, full, lush, centerpiece, or you're doing a styled shoot and they want something larger, it can be a little bit tricky to fit all of the things on your table that you need to, cups, glasses, flatware, plates, and you, of course, want it to be beautiful, but you also want it to be practical for your guests. I think that's really, really important. 

So, I have just a few tips for you if you're wanting to go in this long and lush direction. The first one is to use a centerpiece container that has a little bit of height to it. So, maybe you're doing a bowl, but it has a little pedestal and then the bowl is on top. What you're looking at right now is pretty low. There's no pedestal on this bowl. It's just a bowl with a small little lip at the bottom. And what we're running into problem wise with this, is that the flowers are kind of just invading this space. There's not enough distance between the plates and the flowers. 

So, we want to create a little bit more space. And I'll show you the difference that it makes just to add a little lift underneath your arrangement. So, now you can see there's a considerably larger amount of room between the plate and the flowers, and so the guests can easily access their dinner, and cups and things like that fit in a little bit better. The next tip that I have for you, is to do a little mock setup before your event and before you start designing. So, if this is for a wedding, just set up a table similar. If you're working with an event planner, or cater, or whatever, just ask the dimensions of the plates that will be used. 

You want to be mindful of chargers. Sometimes, you know, you'll get there and oops, surprise! There's chargers, and on a narrow 30-inch table, you cannot fit chargers end to end, and then also, you know, really large centerpiece. So, that's something to consider during the design process when you're working with your client. If they mention charger, you have to kind of ding, ding, ding, remember. It's going to be difficult to fit all that on the table. So, you can set up in your studio, just a quick little-- maybe with a little pop-up eight foot or six foot table, whatever they're using, or round six foot table, just to get an idea of what you're looking at. 

If you don't have those tables, you could do a little visit to the venue if that's practical for you, and you could kind of chart out and set it up, and see what dimensions your flower arrangement should be. So, that way you know if you control your greenery out a little bit more, if you need to tuck it in more. But the most important part with these narrow, long tables, is this section right here. You want this to be pretty narrow. So, tip one, you know, popping it up a little bit higher, tip two, having a little mock setup table. Now, what's great about this, is you're making your first arrangement, you can sort of, examine how the cup-- the cups are kind of the thing that, a lot of times, will get in your way. 

So, if you have the height and width of the cups and you can set that up, you can sort of trim out of your arrangement, little pieces that are interfering with the guest access to those elements of the table. So, this particular pokeweed berry is touching the glass, and I just want to get that out of there, so that it's comfortable for my guests. So, just a small adjustment-- maybe we get rid of this leaf as well-- it makes a big difference, and that'll save you a little bit of time whenever you go to set everything up. It helps the event planner or the caterer be able to access those things easily. 

You don't want to be the florist that always has flowers in the way of other people's jobs, and just practicality is important. So, those are my two quick tips for you. Get the level up, and then set up your little mock table, and that'll help you get an idea of the general size that you need to go for. And then you can also clip things out before your arrangements head out the door, just a little bit of quality control to help you make things a little faster on event set up day. I hope you enjoyed this little video, and if you'd like to see more, you can visit teamflower.org/free. I'm Kelly Perry, thanks for watching. 

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Hi, I'm Kelly Perry with Team Flower. And I am back with a little flower recipe for you. This might be a great option for a bride who would like something that has just a little hint of fall in the air but is still nice and summery. 

It's late August here in the mountains. And I think that these colors are really just telling of the season and the time of year that it is. We have some of these pinks, and we've paired them with some-- just a real rich orange that just has that little bit of a knod to fall, which is fun. 

So the leaves have started changing colors. And this color palette just reminds us where we are in the season. So I just wanted to go through and tell you a little bit about each of these ingredients. You might find a way to work them into your garden, or into an arrangement that you have coming up soon. 

So the first arrangement that we're going to start out with is pokeweed. It's this right here. And it has little pink and green berries. 

Later in the year, they turn into a very dark purple. Once they hit that stage, I don't use them in arrangements anymore because they stain pretty bad. So I just like to avoid that liability. 

But whenever they're at this stage, they're really, really great to use. This is something that just grows wild. And it's weedy here in Boone, so it's easy to come across and a great way to fill an arrangement. And next, we have some snapdragons here-- these little pink guys. And I love how they pull the color out wide into the arrangement. 

These little orange guys here called gomphrena. And they come in a carmine pink and white lavender. So there's a lot of fun color options with these. They have just really nice texture and just that little knod that you can use as a finishing piece. 

I'm quite a bit of lisianthus in this arrangement. This variety has a nice dark burgundy center, which I love how it just captures what's going on with these queen redline zinnias-- one of my favorite zinnias. and then I have the burnt orange dahlias deep in the arrangement here. 

And if we flip over, I just have one other variety of dahlias that we pulled from Darlanna Besecker's farm, Hope Valley Gardens. So here is another variety, that dahlia. And then I missed our little base in here. 

If you look in real deep, there's some limelight hydrangea and then, also, some sedum. So that is my little quick flower recipe for you. Hope you enjoyed it. And if you'd like to see more videos like this, you can visit teamflower.org/free. See you soon. 

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Hi, I'm Kelly Perry. And I wanted to take a few minutes to talk about one of my favorite design principles, and it is, lines. It's never fun to stand in lines and wait. But it is so fun to see lines in your arrangements. 

There's two different kinds of lines we're going to talk about today. One is actual and one is implied. As you can imagine from the definition, an actual line is what the stem creates. It is a line that you follow with your eyes. So you can see it right here in this little piece of gomphrena. 

Implied lines are like connect the dots lines. Maybe if you think about a starry night, all the different constellations and how we use those stars to connect the dots and to create a picture in our mind, that is what an implied line would be like. So I just wanted to show you how I used flowers in this arrangement to create some lines. 

So of course, we just talked about the gomphrena and how we have this little bit of line here. I love to use maybe ranunculus, or things that have a little bit of a curvy stem or some interesting stems that can add some interest to the arrangement. This one's pretty straightforward. But we have some nice curve lines going on with the implied line. 

So let's talk about the first one that's probably most obvious in this arrangement, and it is the zinnias. These are queen red limes. We start our line right down in here. And you can see they're at different levels and the direction that their faces are pointing are a little bit different to add some interest. 

So we have one here, here, here, here, and here. So this is one of our implied lines. Now, the next one we're going to talk about is the line that is formed with these burnt orange dahlias. So it starts down in here, and it pops its way up. 

So here is another implied line. Another one would be here with this lisianthus. We're going this way. 

And this one's more horizontal as opposed to curved like these ones were. And I'll flip the arrangement around. You can use different flowers to create the lines on different sides of your arrangements if you want to add some interest and variety in the flowers to your arrangements. 

So in this one we have dahlia's going in a little line like this. And then, lisianthus, again, we're using to go here. And then over here. 

The great thing about lines is they guide your eye through the arrangement, and they invite you to keep looking deeper. So that is what I'd encourage you to do today. Consider how to add some lines to your arrangement, and always be thinking about how you can think deeper. 

Hope you enjoyed this lesson. If you'd like to see more, you can visit teamflower.org/free. Thanks for watching. 

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Hi, I'm Kelly Perry with Team Flower. And I wanted to do a little bit of a different take on a tutorial. A lot of times, we see the arrangements come together step by step, but when we actually look at them in real life, in a photo, they're already completed. And it's like, wow. How did they get there? 

So I wanted to have a completed arrangement for you today. And I would like to pull it apart piece by piece. I'm going to go backwards, I'm going to show you the last thing that I put in. We're going to just slowly work our way out until all we have remaining is our container. So this will be a really fun one. I hope you enjoy it. 

The ingredient that we're going to start with is this gomphrina, up here. So, I'm just going to start pulling it out in the order that I put it in. I like to use this as the final little bit of movement in the arrangement. So, you can take a little snapshot in your mind and see how removing this ingredient changes it. You could still do something like this if you had a bride who wanted something maybe just a little bit more tailored, less sculptural. Just deleting this one ingredient gives you a more tailored look. 

Next, I'm going to pull out some of the focal flowers that I was working with. And, back here, they were the dahlias So the dahlias are going to come out and I'll show you what it looks like without those dahlias in there. And then on the other side of the arrangement, we were working with zinnias as the focal. And you can see them right here. So I'm just going to tug those out. And then I'm going to go in and pull out the lisianthus So you can take just a quick little peek of what that looks like without those dahlias and without the zinnias. And I'll start pulling out the lisianthus Everything comes together one step at a time, no matter what it is. Flowers, cakes, books-- just a series of steps. Homes. All of those things. 

So, it might seem like a daunting task at first, but as you just start deconstructing it and thinking about it a little bit differently, it becomes, in a way, a little bit more attainable. Which is fun. So if I get overwhelmed, I kind of like to step back and think about all the steps it took to get there. 

OK. Next, I'm going to pull out the burnt orange dahlias, here. And now I'm really getting down to the base material of the arrangement. These ones that I've been pulling out-- the dahlias and the lisianthus-- I would consider the accent flower. So, those are gone. Next I'm going to pull out the snapdragons. These were used to carry color to the sides of the arrangements. Missed a zinnia. 

And now, we're left with the pokeweed, which creates the shape. And, then, the hydrangea and the sedum, which creates the grid that we can layer all the other flowers into. If you find that flowers move around on you a lot, especially with bouquets, this might be the ingredient that you're missing. Something like this, the flowers can really latch into. Because just the overlapping stems, I think, isn't quite enough sometimes. So I think it's helpful to have a flower, a structural flower, in there, as well. 

So out comes the hydrangea. Now you're starting to be able to see the flower foam that it was arranged in. And, of course, with these, the purpose is to cover up that base or that structure, whatever you're using. Whether it's a frog or chicken wire or the foam. Each of those things has pros and cons to them. And you can learn more about those on the free page at Team Flower, where we go through the three different ways that you can set up an arrangement. So if you're curious about the different kinds, and pros and cons, and when to use what, you might consider watching that and chiming in with a few comments. 

So, out comes the serum. And, then, all we have remaining is the pokeweed, which is what created our shape and our general-- how big we were going to get and how wide and deep. So I'll pull that out, too. And a lot of times, with this-- I'll leave this one in here, I guess-- some of these shorter pieces go in second. And I will use the longer pieces too. Those ones will go in first, to get the general shape established. And, then, these act both as a shape and then also as cover. And one little piece of spirea that I put in here. 

So, there you have it. The deconstructed table arrangement. This isn't a very pretty way to end a tutorial, but it was pretty when started. So, anyway, I hope you enjoyed that. And hope that that helps you and inspires you to take the next step with your business. If you'd like to see more free videos like this, you can hop on TeamFlower.org/free. And hop on our mailing list, you'll be notified as soon as new videos are released. Thanks for watching. Have a great day. 

Fast Flower Video: Bouquet of my wedding flowers

Seven years ago this week Jesse and I were getting ready for our wedding! I thought it would be fun to celebrate by recreating the bouquet my sisters-in-law made for me. It has eucalyptus, spray roses, sweet peas, lisianthus, garden roses, anemones and lamb's ear. Watch this fast bouquet time-lapse come together!

Video: How to Divide Dahlias

In this video we share how to divide dahlia tubers. Susan has been doing it for over 20 years, has tried all kinds of methods and is sharing her favorites. Jump in to learn about tubers, eyes, and dividing dahlias!

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Transcription:

Hi. My name's Kelly. And I'm here with my friend Susan from Shady Grove Gardens. Susan and her husband Brent grow wonderful dahlias up at their mountain farm. And so I asked Susan to come over today and tell us a little bit how to divide dahlias. And I also wanted to tell you a little bit about the dahlia workshop that she has coming up this July. Tell us a little bit about it. 

It's July 31st. And we're going to have one day of very intensive everything you need to know about dahlias. So it'll be planting, staking, dividing, design. We're going to spend a little bit of time with little tricks and tips on how to design. How to cut them, how to do disease control. 

They also get a lot of insects, so we're going to go over insect control, and the hard parts, planting and harvesting and digging them up in the fall, and then how do you store them. And today, we're going to do the division. But we're going to cover everything else at the workshop. 

Perfect. That sounds super fun. I bet you'll have like all the different varieties and kinds that you would recommend. So you're thinking you might want to start growing dahlias, there are all kinds of varieties out there. But Susan's been doing this for a long time and she knows the ones that really work well for her. So she'll be sharing all of that at the workshop, which is really exciting. 

So tell us what we're looking for and how we need to do this. These are Cafe au Laits from my little backyard garden. And I've never divided them before. I know that there's eyes and that that's important. 

Well, there are several different ways to do it. And I'm actually very conservative, because they're mine and I'm not shipping them off usually and I'm not trying to make hundreds out of it. So I might leave something like this for myself. But I start by clipping off all the little, what lot of people call as hairy bits. 

Get rid of all those hairy bits. 

And that makes it just a little bit easier to see. Now, you can divide the dahlias, either in the fall, right after you dig them up, which makes it a little easier to see the eye. 

Show us what the eye looks like over here. 

So the eye is these little tiny bumps here. 

Right around the kind of top. So this kind of looks like a little magnolia pod, doesn't it? And then, it's tiny. And then, you get this little bit of a bump right there. 

And it's always attached to the stem. So when you divide them, you always want a little bit of the stem to remain. So on this particular one, if you think there's two or three eyes in there, and you can also see, possibly, two or three eyes back here. So what you want to do is leave some piece of the stem, because that's where you think the eyes are going to be. 

So here, I'm cutting up through the middle of the stem. And this part isn't necessary. 

Goodbye stem piece. 

So then, if you really wanted to make three out of this, you could cut it again. But if you want to be conservative, you just cut it like so. So this has sort of this little neck here. And that's where I would expect the buds to come out. 

So the buds, or the new growth, is actually going to be coming out of that eye. 

All the growth will come out of there. And of course, it will form roots. 

So if we cut the eye off, then we just cut off anything that would be viable. 

Right. You can, if you have these here that are-- see how this is broken, what I would call broken, the neck's broken. 

Cracked. 

So these, most likely, will not do anything. So often, we will clip those off. But we'll keep this and that should come out. Now, this one's a little on the shriveled side, but it should be OK, if it doesn't continue to shrivel. We store ours-- we've gone through a lot of different trial and error, sometimes they'll rot, sometimes they don't. But this year we've decided that pine bark or the bedding that you use for pets-- 

Like hamsters? 

Like hamsters, like those little chips you buy at the store, those big bags, that seems to be our best bet for storing. So it doesn't keep them wet, it doesn't keep them any drier. We do have the whole bins all the sets of bins with the chips shavings in there, are all also surrounded with plastic so they don't lose-- you also want to store them about 40 degrees. Now, our garage is not 40 degrees. 

Yeah. This isn't either. 

So we try. 

Do they need a cold period? Or it's more or less for preserving them? 

Yeah. They're from the Andes. But they do not need a cold period. So think of them like a tomato. It's a tropical plant. It just needs a little rest, because in North America, it's too cold for them. 

That's interesting that it was a tropical plant. 

Yeah. So whenever people say like that it's too hot or that it needs that-- I guess, and you know this, because you're a Costa Rica girl-- the swing of the temperatures, like day to night, but people in Florida it just doesn't get cold enough for them, or if they're like they're on the coast. 

They're from the Andes. 

Educate me. 

The mountains, the cool summer nights, cool days, that's where they're the happiest. That's their origin. 

When you said tropics I immediately thought I'm going to the Bahamas now and I was like, wait a second. 

But that's where the wild ones are. So they probably originated somewhere near where potatoes originated and they act a lot like potatoes. 

Interesting. So this one here, would you say, if you do you have that broken neck, would you just leave it on and plant it? It's not going to do any harm, but-- 

Yeah. I probably would, just hoping that it might be OK. , Now, one that's really badly damaged, like this one, I'd probably clip it off. And I didn't used to do that. But just for storage space. And then, you don't want the rot. If it rots, you don't want it to spread to the rest of the plant. So ideally, you don't want them to shrivel quite that much. 

Show the bad example. 

But this will still have a good potential to sprout. I don't think I would divide it more, although some people might. You can clip the stem off, just don't clip down too far, because every once in a while, the buds will come out right here. 

Now, this one is more challenging. So you would need, probably, a sturdier knife and really cut into that. You could use clippers or even loppers. 

Yeah. This is hard. 

So that's another reason to maybe do them in the fall, when they're a little softer. 

Right. So basically, I dug these. I left them in soil and I kept them in a pot in a cool room of the house. 

Cool's good. Cool's good. And then, you want fairly high humidity so they don't dry out. And like I said, 40 degrees, 60 degrees. We start opening our garage windows if it gets above that and hope for the best in this warm weather. 

So recap. We're getting rid of the hairy bits. Step one. Step two-- 

Makes it a little easier to see what's going on. 

Yeah, it's easier to see what's happening. 

And you knock off the dirt. In my case, I'm knocking off rocks, because we have lots of rocks. And we're trying to get those out between the tubers. But the next step is what most people are afraid to do, is to really just go right on in there. And you are going to lose-- 

Look at this one. What's happening here? 

That is probably the mother. Actually this one's the mother. So that's the one you had last year. 

Oh, OK. 

So it's usually a little rougher, it could even be hollow. 

Will it produce again? 

No. So you could remove that and not miss it. 

Let's get a close up of what the mother looks like. 

So this one is the mother. So that's last year's tuber. And then, all of these formed over the summer last year. 

So then, usually, I'll go in with something like clippers and cut into the stem. But these won't do that. So we're just going to show you. 

Is there something else I can give you? 

Nah. I think maybe I could just switch to another. 

Yeah. We'll just switch to another one. And there's all kinds of different tools that you can use to get these going, even the little-- I'm not sure what it's called. 

It's like a Dremel tool. 

It's like a Dremel tool. 

Or those tiny Sawzall. And you can get small and large blades. We use a little narrow one, about the width of my finger. And it's heavy and it's not cheap, if you have a lot of dahlias, you're going to want to do it. So then, we go in and it just goes-- 

[BUZZING] 

--and it just cuts, like that. And then, it's a little easier. 

So here's one of your eyes. 

And you can see, it looks like it's like sprouting now, this little bit of green. 

Yes. It's starting to sprout, because we've had a little bit of a warm spell. So if you wanted to get them started early, you could put it in a pot. 

Put it in a pot and starting babying it a little bit. 

Yeah, but then you have to care for it everyday. 

Do you get an earlier bloom, or what's the benefit of-- 

Yeah. You get an earlier bloom. And then, those people that really want more dahlias can do cuttings. But that's a whole other project. 

So on this one, it's a little easier to see where you might cut it. And so you just cut in there. And you still have multiple buds. And on this one, hopefully, we still have multiple buds there. 

Yeah. Can you see this? You can see, up around this eye, how there's already even these little buds that are starting to pop out. So cool. So there's a plant. And here's one. And here's one. And here's one, maybe two? 

Yeah. Maybe two, if you're feeling brave. 

I don't have enough room, so I won't feel brave. I'll just-- 

Since these are Kelly's, I'm not going to cut it up more. 

And since I don't have a lot of room, I don't need-- look at all these. It's amazing how, this was three plants. So here and now we already have three more plants coming up this year. 

Especially if you're doing this in the fall, you want to let this sort of seal over before you were to put it in some-- 

To store it. 

Don't do what I did. Don't put them in Ziploc bags and store them. You will kill them. All mine rotted one year when I did that. So you do want to use some sort of loose bedding, newspapers, shavings, or something like that. But you also, just give it a day or two, like a potato that you've cut up and let it seal over and you should be good to go there. 

Well, Susan, thank you so much for coming to tell us and share what you know about the dahlias and dividing them. This has been really helpful. And now, all my dahlias are ready to get potted up and I guess to get an early bloom, get started out there. 

So thanks so much for coming. We look forward to seeing you. And for those of you who come to Susan's workshop, we can't wait to see you soon. 

Your Quick Guide to Creating Floral Ceiling Installations

Who doesn’t love that dreamy look of hanging event and wedding flowers from the ceiling? I love creating floral arrangements for the ceiling. They’re so beautiful and can completely transform a space. They also tend to be creatively challenging! In this article, I’ll cover tips and steps to creating simple and elegant (and reusable!) floral ceiling installations.

How to Create a Large-Scale, Foam-Free Summer Floral Arrangement

Summer's bounty gives us rich sunset tones and beautiful dahlias to enjoy. In this tutorial, we'll be creating a large-scale, foam-free summer floral arrangement in an urn that transitions from shades of dark rust and orange to warm golden yellows and earthy creams. Once the warmth of summer has left us, this step-by-step floral arrangement lesson can easily be applied to any season with available flowers.

Video: Make a Simple, Elegant Floral Design with Only 2 Ingredients

Watch as Kelly puts together a simple two ingredient arrangement. Poppies and Solomon's Seal are a sweet late-spring pair. This design is perfect for dressing up a windowsill at home, wedding bar or guestbook table on the fly!   

Transcript

Hey, I'm back, excited to share an arrangement with you that this time only has two ingredients. I have Solomon's seal and poppies. I also have a message for you on the upper side of my camera. And it is that you are awesome. OK, have a flower frog in my container. This is also [INAUDIBLE] decor, if you're looking for one. Have my pieces of Solomon's seal are arranged by size. I have one that's long, and then two that are more of a smaller/medium size. 

Gonna start with this one. We're going to go straight up. Going to be fun. And I'm going to clip it down just a little bit. Got a frog in here that's raising my levels. Whenever you're not using a lot of flowers, mention frogs are great, because they're just kind of pretty to look at. I think they look nice in an arrangement. 

So I have to be as conscious about covering-- kind of the point is to show negative space in the arrangement. We're using the principle of design of radiation in this arrangement. Everything is going to-- all the lines are going to come out from one point with this base material that we're working with. 

And for balance, I'm wanting to keep this as my center point, and then same amount both to the right and left. And what I'm doing with these pieces, I'm kind of moving around in this circle a bit, and I'm creating a little house for the poppies to live, making room for them. 

So this is where we are. This is the front side of the arrangement, and my poppies are going to live in this area here. So we created the general shape, the general size, that goal of level one. We're not going to worry about covering the base. And this sort of is just another part of that. And then we're going to use the poppies as both level two and level three. We're going to have them work together to create a resting point for the eye. But then we're also going to use them to create movement through line. 

Now, a lot of the times I like to use gradation in size whenever I'm arranging, but my smallest poppy has the shortest stem, so we're going to reverse that. This is probably technically-- let's see here. One third, it looks a little bit-- yeah, the poppy is a little bit too high proportion wise. So I'm going to let him come down a little bit. 

I was reading somewhere that poppies like to drink through the little hairs on their stems. So getting them this way, you singe the ends to seal off that little wound, and then put them in deep water till they're properly hydrated as these ones are. 

OK, so those are going to be my bottom two. With poppies, too, I think they're really pretty if you could just have their faces pointing in different ways as you work. They're all looking straight at you, staring you down, making you feel a little bit uncomfortable. Poppy etiquette. 

So this is something that would be fantastic for a guest book table or bars, anywhere to add a little extra thing, only 10 stems, 10 stems, two ingredients. Big, the whole way down to small. We're doing this kind of trickle, faces up, faces out, moving in and out throughout the arrangement. OK. Be back with another one for you. 

7 Easy Steps to Creating a Foam-Free Living Meadow

With an ever-increasing installation trend in weddings and event work, as well as the emphasis on foam-free floral designs, I was eager to figure out a way to create a ground installation, or living meadow, with foam-free mechanics that offered flexibility in multiple installation scenarios. There are so many options for foam-free installation mechanics out there, but this is the method that worked well for me. Hopefully, you will find it useful—or maybe it will provide you with a starting point for additional foam-free floral designs!